Fat Tuesday takes on a life of its own in Mobile, Alabamathe birthplace of the modern-day Carnival celebration.
A marching band beats by with its jubilant horns and rattling snare drum.
I then unwrap a banana-flavoredMoonPiefrom my nearly full bag of loot and take a bite of the marshmallowy goodness.
Downtown Mobile hosts more than 40 parades in the weeks preceding the holiday.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Even talking about Mardi Gras here requires a new vocabulary.
It all kicks off with the Camellia Ball on the day before Thanksgiving each year.
Local history is full of fascinating tales like that of the Cowbellions.
Revelers throw treats to the enthusiastic crowds.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Carnival is our greatest living tradition, says Blackwell.
Most Southern cities have three seasons: summer, hunting, and football.
But in Mobile and New Orleans, weve gotCarnival season.
Be on the lookout for the Knights of Revelry krewe, one of Mobile’s oldest parading groups, dressed in blue and silver.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Its on the calendar here from November to Ash Wednesday morning, but it never really stops.
Theyre covered in fox pelts and leopard fur and bedazzled with Swarovski crystals and gold filigree.
Im excited to build my own legacy, says Pugh.
The Mystics of Time parade passes by the historic Kennedy House.Credit:Cedric Angeles
I cant wait for another 85 years to see it grow.
TheExcelsior Bandis a decorated Black walking jazz ensemble and is the oldest of its kind in the country.
Generations of musicians have been putting in the work for over 140 years.
Admire ornate trains at the Mobile Carnival Museum.Credit:Cedric Angeles
The Mobile native has conceptualized and designed over 600 floats since he started 25 years ago.
He feels like Mardi Gras has always been a big part of his life.
It was year-round at our house, so designing these was always my dream.
Alan Wilson Green and Richlyn Sydney Pugh were crowned king and queen of the Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association in 2023.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Its cool being a part of something that you grew up with and that has such a rich history.
Theres some permanence in the impermanence.
When it comes to these fleeting pleasures, Laura Stafford ofGourmet Goodiesin nearby Daphne is an expert.
Excelsior’s Theodore Arthur plays a variety of saxophones.Credit:Cedric Angeles
In 2022, they developed the recipe for their crawfish version, which went viral online.
After they placed in a majorking cakecompetition, news spread quickly.
Folks from all over the countyas well as from neighboring states were lining up at the bakerys front doors.
See horn players marching in the Excelsior Band.Credit:Cedric Angeles
It just kind of exploded, Stafford recalls.
Each dinner-roll-size treat is stuffed with a creative filling and serves one to two people.
Eat, Drink, & Be Merry
You cant celebrate on an empty stomach.
Locals spend months preparing costumes.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Keep reading for seven restaurants to check out in Mob Town.
Squid Ink
Chef Pete Blohme, owner of Panini Petes, opened this gastro-pub downtown in 2019. mobaybeignetco.com; 451 Dauphin St. Order the tasting menu, and hope that it ends with the Lane Cake.
It’s charming courtyard, which all rooms are centered around, is also a major selling point.
Gourmet Goodies offers mini cakes, aka bombs.Credit:Cedric Angeles
theadmiralhotel.com; 251 Government St., Mobile, AL 36602; 251-432-8000
Expect beautifully plated dishes at Squid Ink.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Sip (and nibble) on The Hail Marys at LoDa Bier Garten.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Keep the fun going with themed cocktails at Post.Credit:Cedric Angeles
Gumbo is a delicious starter at Bluegill Restaurant.Credit:Cedric Angeles
The lobby of the grand Battle House is a popular meeting place during Carnival.Credit:Cedric Angeles
