The historic sponging village is a truly one-of-a-kind destination.

Cedric Angeles

It’s nearing 9:30 on a balmy summer night as I amble along Tarpon Springs’Historic Sponge Docks.

Ahead, a towering neon Spartan soldier marks the entrance toHellas Restaurant & Bakery.

Tarpon Springs sponge diving

Credit:Cedric Angeles

Their descendants are the reason the city now has the highest concentration of Greek Americans relative to its population.

Those same docks remain at the heart of this community.

Many consider them to be more durable, sanitary, and sustainable.

Hellas Bakery

Credit:Cedric Angeles

Its one he respects, but hes happy to be on the other side of it.

The boat can stay out sometimes three to five weeks at sea, he says.

You really have to want to be on the ocean, says Anestis.

Historic Sponge Docks Tarpon Springs

My father has been doing it for 52 years.

Hes the only diver on the boat, and he works morning to night.

Hes a tough Old Country guy and doesnt have to worry about anyonejust himself.

Sponges in Tarpon Springs

You have to be like a pirate to do this job.

Giant mesh bags overstuffed with porous Parazoa dangle from its sides.

The upper deck is piled high with some that are strung together like popcorn garlands drying in the sun.

Sponge Diver Taso Karistino in Tarpon Springs, Florida

George Billiris keeps sponge-diving historyand his familys businessalive by running the charter his grandfather started in 1924.

Only an air hose and a rope tethered them to the surface.

I leave with an even deeper appreciation for the practice.

Anesti and Taso Karistino in Tarpon Springs, FL

Its not an easy career by any stretch of the imagination.

EvenDirty Jobshost Mike Rowe said so when he came to shadow Taso for a 2011 episode.

During my visit at 2 p.m. on a Saturday in their slow season, the place is packed.

George Billiris St. Nicholas Boat Line

The fork-tender caveman-size shank is blanketed in sauteed endive and a bright lemon-egg-dill sauce.

It may be my favorite thing I eat all weekend.

Im trying to fill big shoes, she says.

Tarpon Springs, Florida

My parents probably lost years of their lives trying to give us better lives.

The menu emphasizes seasonality, fresh seafood, and steaks over traditional hot dishes and casseroles.

One thing he is carrying on from his dad?

Mykonos Tarpon Springs

He got that from my Yiayia.

She fed everybody and got offended if you didnt eat.

Its really become an institution for people to celebrate birthdays and big moments in their lives, she says.

Dimitris on the Water Tarpon Springs

Thats what brings me the most joy.

The next chapter unfolds along Tarpon Avenue.

Start at Craig Park overlooking Spring Bayou.

Fisherman Jake Dean dropping off mullet at Pelican Point Seafood/Rusty Bellies

Outfitted in antique furniture and family heirlooms, the rooms and common spaces appear comfortingly stuck in time.

I feel like its not mine, she says about the landmark.

The Butlers say that in 2023 alone, the operation had close to 40,000 guests.

Rusty Bellies shrimp

Visit a Traditional Greek Orthodox Cathedral

A different jot down of fellowship takes place atSt.

Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral, where more than 1,000 families attend weekly services held in both Greek and English.

Outdoor Adventure In Tarpon Springs

Amp up your trip with outdoor adventures in and around downtown.

Tarpon Springs Heritage Museum

Credit:Cedric Angeles

The mile-long causeway to get there ends with sabal palmetto-lined white-sand shores.

Swim in the Gulf, or rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard.

Bike the Pinellas Trail

This65-mile multipurpose pathruns fromSt.

1910 Inn with owner Annie Samarkos

Credit:Cedric Angeles

Petersburgto Tarpon Springs, but the most scenic portion is an 11-mile stretch between downtown Tarpon Springs and Dunedin.

Bike rentals are available in town.

Start or end your journey with a meal atToulas Trailside Cafefor salads, sandwiches, and homestyle breakfasts.

Downtown Tarpon Springs

Its a must on its own but even better when added to a sandwich.

Tarpon Springs Distillery

St. Michael’s Shrine

Credit:Cedric Angeles

Fred Howard Park

Fred Howard Park