Oyster stew is a favorite for a lifetime.

This gloriously simple comes from the home kitchen of Bill Smith, one of our favorite food writers.

(During World War II, he was assigned to an army post office in Calcutta, India.)

Two bowls of Simple Oyster Stew on a table with spoons, a napkin, and glasses of white wine.

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Back in those days, people would often leave presents for postal workers, especially around the holidays.

We sometimes kept a gifted basket of oysters under a wet burlap bag in our basement.

People thought they got too large and became sort of milky.

Raw oysters

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It turns out, they arent unsafe at other times of the year, just less appetizing.

We mainly prepared them three ways: in a stew,roasted over a fire, or raw.

I still prefer these uncomplicated recipes.

Close up of a man opening oyster shell with a knife - stock photo

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Unfussy oysters reinforce this point of view.

Oyster stew was always soothing.

How can something so simple be so delicious?

shucking oyster

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If you dont have to do the shucking, it can be ready in a snap.

Its almost not even a recipe at all.

It seems strange to me now, but it was often brought to us when we were sick.

knife in oyster

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My fathers mother would ask for it when she became frail, and sometimes bedridden, in old age.

In coastal North Carolina, oyster fishing was done in the wild until recently.

The people who gathered them for a living could lease out beds during the busy season.

bubbling milk in a saucepan

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Then development, pollution, and climate change began to affect our wild seafood populations.

This has happened all along the Southern coast.

Their doctors told them that this isnt uncommon, just bad luck.

cooked oyster on a wooden spoon for oyster stew

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I hate to think what I would do if this happened to me.

Im in favor of oysters any way they show upeven in drinks.

Im especially fond of the beer-tomato juice cocktail known as the michelada.

oyster stew in bowl with melting butter

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Why, extraordinary, of course!

It came with a spoon because half a dozen raw oysters had been stirred into the drink.

It was a showstopper.

oyster stew in bowls

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Dont worryyou dont have to drink oysters to be considered a true oyster lover!

From baked tofriedto every way in between, here are ourfavorite oyster recipesyou can make at home.

Insert an oyster or paring knife between shell halves near the hinge.

Pry open oyster, and drain liquor into a small bowl.

Place oyster on a plate.

Repeat procedure with remaining oysters.

Set oysters and liquor aside.

Stir in oysters and oyster liquor.

(If using preshucked oysters, add about 3/4 cup reserved liquor.)

Stir in salt and pepper.

Remove pan from heat.

Transfer oysters from pan to bowls using a spoon; carefully pour hot milk mixture over oysters.

Sprinkle evenly with sliced scallion.

Serve with oyster crackers.