The recipe is simple, but the process can be nerve-racking.

Served over hot rice, it was always the most requested meal for family birthdays.

My father-in-law, James, was a harsh critic of her roux.

Rasberry Family Shrimp-and-Sausage Gumbo

Credit: Photographer: Antonis Achilleos, Prop Stylist: Chelsea Zimmer Food Stylist: Mary Clayton Carl

Most of the time, he would proclaim, “Weeder, your roux is just right.”

I wanted to hit him upside the head with a hot skillet.

Her mother showed her how to make it, and she passed it down to me.

I’ve experimented and fine-tuned it over the years, but the base of her recipe remains.

Sooner than I would have liked, I became the matriarch of the Rasberry clan.

There’s a fine line between dark enough and disaster.

Only instinct, sight, and smell (which come with experience) can distinguish between the two.

It was from 1972 and had obviously been around the U.S.A. a few times.

I dropped the penny and the spoon to answer it.

I swear it was for only a few seconds.

The roux scorched and set off the smoke alarm.

That was a long time ago.

I’ve learned that it can be unforgiving, selfish, and demanding.

It has to be the center of attention, or it will give you a very roux awakening.

Ingredients

12cup, plus 1 tsp.

vegetable oil, divided

1lb.

okr pods) or frozen cut okra (from 1 [16-oz.]

), thawed

1large onion, chopped (2 cups)

1(14 1/2-oz.)

can diced tomatoes

2Tbsp.

Old Bay seasoning

12tsp.

garlic powder

3fresh bay leaves

8cups chicken broth, divided

3Tbsp.

tomato paste

12cup all-purpose flour

2lb.

Add okra and onion; cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 3 minutes.

Pour off any excess drippings in stockpot.

Add tomato paste-broth mixture to roux in skillet, stirring until smooth.

Add mixture to stockpot, stirring until combined.

Remove and discard bay leaves.

Serve over rice with crackers or garlic toast alongside a green salad.