The easiest hydrangea to grow loves the summer swelter.
Key Takeaways
Some hydrangeas burn to a crisp in August sun.
Others die of thirst.

Credit: Steve Bender
Still others won’t bloom ifyou prune themin fall, winter, or spring.
This pop in is easy, easy, easy to grow in USDA Zones 3 to 9A.
That’s a big chunk of country.

Credit: Jacky Parker Photography/Getty Images
I highly recommend this fuss-free shrub, but there are many other selections.
I never spray, fertilize, or fuss over it.
It’s a keeper.
Here’s how to care for ‘Limelight’ and other panicle hydrangeas.
Light
Panicle hydrangeas are more tolerant of sun than most othertypes of hydrangeas.
Plant in a location that receives at least four hours of sun a day for the most prolific flowering.
A panicle hydrangea can grow in full sun, but may appreciate afternoon shade in hot climates.
Soil
Panicle hydrangeas tolerate most soils, even clay, as long as they are well-drained.
Add a layer of mulch to preserve moisture if planting in a dry spot.
Water
Water regularly during the first year after planting to help your shrub get established.
Too much water or poor drainage can lead to root rot.
‘Limelight’ is noted for its heat-tolerance and can be grown in Zone 9.
But ‘Limelight’ is far from the only panicle hydrangea you could buy.
For the color change to happen, nighttime temperatures must drop into the 60s or below.
Otherwise, flowers stay white and then gradually dry and turn brown.
So don’t count on pink flowers in USDA Zones 7B, 8, or 9.
In Zones 3 to 7A, enjoy the show.
Pruning is not strictly necessary, but can be used to strengthen stems or reshape the shrub.
Remove about 1/3 of the plant’s height, as well as any spindly stems or unattractive side branches.
Propagating Panicle Hydrangea
Hydrangeas can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them in soil.
They are most easily propagated from new growth in late spring or early summer.
Cut a 4 to 6 in.
length of stem; the bottom should be cut right above a leaf node.
Remove all leaves except for the top set.
Moisten the bottom of the stem and dip in rooting hormone.
Plant immediately in a container of well-moistened, high-quality potting soil about 2 inches deep.
Keep in bright indirect sunglight, watering to keep soil moist.
The cutting is ready to plant once it has rooted and does not come loose with a gentle tug.
you’re free to also propagate this plant with ground layering.
Removed the bottom leaves from a low hanging branch and bury it in a shallow trench in the soil.
Place a rock or brick over top to hold it in place.
After several weeks, the buried section of branch should develop a strong root system.
you could remove the branch and replant it in a pot or in a sheltered area of your garden.
Open-pollinated plants can produce seed with different traits from the parent plant and will take longer to reach maturity.
Keep the soil moist and the tray in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Use a weather-proof container with drainage holes that is at least 16 inches wide.
Fill with potting soil to the bottom of where the plant will sit.
Place your hydrangea in the pot, fill in with soil around it, and water well.
Add a thin layer of mulch to help preserve moisture.
Your hydrangea will need frequent watering in warm weather; check the container for moisture daily.
In winter, check soil moisture every 10 to 14 days.
Improve ventiliation around the plant and spray with a fungicide if these problems occur.
Sometimes aphids and spider mites can infest hydrangeas; spray them away with a strong blast from the hose.
Unfortunately, deer relish hydrangeas, as my brother and sister-in-law discovered at their home in West Virginia.
Deer repellents like Deer Off, Liquid Fence, and Bobbex prevent this but must be reapplied periodically.
My brother protects his hydrangeas inside cylindrical wire cages.
But there are other reasons a hydrangea might not bloom: